In my Restaurant Somm Days just like this sign says I thought Dolcetto D’Alba from the Northwest Italian Region of Piedmont, was an “EVERYDAY WINE”. I found them very boring and one dimensional to be perfectly honest and very rarely drink one.
Then I Learned About “DOGLIANI”
Everyone, even a Master Sommelier, learns something new everyday. A shout out to my Regional Wine and Spirits Sales Manager, Paul Quaglini (He is an Italian Wine Ambassador, a Level 2 Sommelier and handles most of the Italian Wine Buying for ABC Fine Wine & Spirits) (Follow him at @abcwinepaulq on Twitter) For opening my eyes by bringing in this amazing wine from an amazing producer from “DOGLIANI” Sounds like a shape of Pasta like “RIGATONI”.
Dogliani ,is in the the Province of Cuneo in the region of Piedmont, located about 60 kilometers (37 mi) southeast of TURIN and as you can see by the map above, it is south of ASTI , ALBA and ACQUI which are ALL only D.O.C. Dogliani is a D.O.C.G.!
One Territory, One Grape
The Dogliani DOCG, from 100% Dolcetto grapes, is a wine with a great potential and a complex character. It is a complete wine in which one may find at the same time the austerity of great Piedmont wines and the roundness of a fragrant fruit. It can age while preserving coolness, scents and deep dark color. The first historical documents on the wine trade are dated around 1000 A.D. but it is in 1593 that the name “dozzetto” (dolcetto) is found for the first time in an official document issued by the Dogliani municipality. This can stand up to the biggest boldest, fragrant wines of the area such as Barolo, or Barbaresco. This isn’t your Nonna’s Dolcetto D’Alba or a Chianti as I have tasted in the past.
Quinta Chionetti
Giuseppe Chionetti bought some land in Dogliani about 1912. Gradually the sale of bottled wine, and consequently the Chionetti name, were established. But it is thanks to Quinto, grandson of the founder Giuseppe, that the marketing of the bottles with the name of the family really grew. Andrea then, the son of Quinto, decided to explore the potential of their vineyards and, as a result, they started to produce Three crus (Single Vineyards ): Sorì Briccolero, San Luigi, Vigna la Costa.
Tasting Notes And Review
One reminder again. Before I review any wines for this blog, they are opened and checked for flaws and if good allowed to aerate or breathe for 2 hours and brought down to proper serving temperature of 68 degrees F. This was a very dark RUBY color with a very tight nose on the 2012. I was getting nothing but New Car Leather with mild fruit. This shows aging potential of the wine and this is not like a Dolcetto D’Alba which is almost Pop and Pour. It indicates this wine is a BABY at 5.5 years old and NO Oak is used in the San Luigi only Stainless Steel for 1 year. By Hour number 3 it was like the Skies opened up after a bad rainy day. A very expressively perfumed nose came out of Dark Red Raspberries, Mercedes Leather, Floral Components. If a single woman was wearing this behind her ears instead of Chanel, I would drop to one knee and propose lol. It was seductive and intoxicating.
On the palate, Tart Cherries, Rich Mouthfeel (for a wine with 13.5% ABV and No Oak) Licorice, Crushed Flowers and the usual trademark of any Dolcetto Wine is Almond but this one from Dogliani was very pronounced with almost a Sweet Marzipan dusted with Cinnamon, This was feminine but with a masculine tannic finish. It was my first Unisex tasting profile :-))). Great Italian Wine Reviewer Antonio Galloni scored this vintage of this wine 91 Points (maybe slightly pushing the limit slightly in my opinion. This wine at an ABC in Florida is $21.99 and drinks like a more expensive Italian Wine.
Summary
I and you learned at the same time, drink Dolcetto from Dogliani D.O.C.G. ONLY. It’s like a different animal than the Dolcettos produced in nearby regions of Piedmont. This wine after 3 hours of breathing and a slight chill will seduce you in aromatics and on your palate that like me…It would be very difficult not to fall in love at first sip. Please seek this wine out. It’s a beauty. This is not LUST! This is Real LOVE.
Grape-fullly yours, Larry
Larry The Wine Guy 