Ancient Grapes On The Heel Of The Boot

29 Tuesday May 2012

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Why is a wine guy writing a blog post about Neil Diamond? It’s not Neil Diamond. It is his twin look alike Gregory Perrucci, General Manager of Accademia Dei Racemi in Manduria, Italy in the Puglia region. When it comes to Italian Wine, most people think of Tuscany, Piedmonte, Venezie, and Sicily, Italy is shaped like a boot. Puglia is located on the heel of the boot between two seas (Tra due mari in Italian) The Adriatic and Ionian Seas. The Racemes are the second result that some varieties grow. These second-generation fruit ripen at a distance of about 20 days after harvest of the primary grapes are harvested and vinified and therefore at a later time, representing a second chance to improve or even recover the adverse events occurred in the first fermentation.
This is the real reason the name Accademia Dei RACEMI as this is a project of passionate people working together to bring dignity to these ancient grape varieties in this region.

A little bit about Sussumaniello. This grape variety is one of the most ancient grape varieties dating back to the Roman Time. It was thought to be facing extinction until it was rediscovered in 1998 by this great historian of Puglian vines Gregory Perrucci (A.K.A. Neil Diamond pictured above) When I was in Italy, 2 years ago I visited Racemi and first met Gregory and his wonderful girlfriend Marianna Greco (A Talented Graphic Artist who designs Racemi’s Labels). I love all the ancient varieties that Gregory Produces such as Primitivo, Negramaro, Malvasia Nera, Ottavianello (Cinsualt in France) and Marianna and My Personal Favorite, Sussumaniello or as Racemi calls their bottling “SUM”.

Torre Guaceto is a nature reserve and protected area, so while the rest of the surrounding coastline is now home to countless bars, restaurants and hotels, this patch of sand and sea has remained blissfully free from development. This is where Gregory rediscovered “SUM”. I might add this is where Gregory grows Negramaro and I might add this is where Gregory grows the Olives for my favorite Olive Oil (Hint Hint Gregory, I am out Of Olive Oil).

These are the sandy soils in Torre Guaceto. Look at the thickness of these ancient vines. They look like tree stumps. The older the vines have to go into the ground to get their water, the smaller the berries on the vine and the more concentrated flavors you will get out of the grapes. “SUM” is imported in the State Of Florida by Alberello Imports and “The Selections Of Nadia Galati”. I feel like I am being redundant when I mention that name but besides considering Nadia and Her husband Chris friends, I really believe that their portfolio is the best of the best in Italian Wines.

Last night I was having some light Greek Food and I just happened to have a bottle of Gregory’s “SUM” pictured above to review. This was the 2008 vintage of “SUM” from the Torre Guaceto Property and it has 13.5% Alcohol. After chilling the wine down to a perfect 60 degrees, I poured and sniffed. WOW, was my first reaction. What a nose! This smelled like someone was crushing fresh grapes right next to me. Beautiful ripe red fruits with a hint of caramel or toffee in the background with a dash of spice. On my palate an explosion of macerated red cherries or kirsch type flavors with a long silky finish. This wine was old vine fruit at it’s finest and I can see why “SUM” is Marianna’s favorite wine that Gregory produces as it is mine too.

Anyone can go to a Wine Shop and find another bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay or Merlot. For Italian wines the marketplace is flooded with Chiantis, Pinot Grigios, Brunellos, Super Tuscans and Barolos. How many Wine shops carry a good assortment of Primitivos di Manduria, Negramaro, Malvasia Nera, Salento Rosso Blends, and where are you going to find a bottle of Sussumaniello or “SUM”? Thank you Gregory for your dedication to bringing attention back to the ancient varieties for wine from the Heel Of The Boot in Manduria, Italy. I suggest everyone reading this blog to seek out these wines at your local retailer and if not available in your local area, you can find these from an internet shipper. Neil Diamond makes some pretty darn good wines that are food friendly and very versatile with all sorts of cuisine. Next time you plan a visit to Italy, don’t leave out the “Heel Of The Boot” and check out Accademia Dai Racemi while there.

This is the reason when the Italian Winemakers come to Florida once a year that I give Gregory Perrucci a big Kiss. It is my way of saying…Please Sir Gregory May I have “SUM” More???

One More Off The “Bucket List” The Wine Guy’s First Visit To France

21 Monday May 2012

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What you are about to see below is pure fiction. The names have been changed to protect the innocent and screw up an American trying to educate themselves about French Wines.

American Jug Wines with names that say Chablis, or Hearty Burgundy do nothing but confuse the already confused American Wine Consumer. Burgundy is not a grape varietal like Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Burgundy is a REGION in France. Just like any other Region in the world, there are different, towns, cities or villages in that REGION. Chablis is not a grape variety either. It is one of the many well known villages in the REGION of Burgundy. Is this more confusing? Don’t blame me. Blame all these Box Wine and Jug Wine companies, naming American Wines after Regions and Villages in France. One thing to simplify the confusion is that in the Burgundy Region Of France, it doesn’t matter what village name it says on the bottle, if the color of the wine is White and it comes from Burgundy 99% of the time you are drinking Chardonnay. If the color of the wine is Red and it comes from the Region of Burgundy, it doesn’t matter the name of the village the wine was produced in, 99% of the time you are drinking Pinot Noir. So in summation, White Burgundy is Chardonnay and Red Burgundy is Pinot Noir. Now if you are not a Chardonnay fan or on the red side not a Pinot Noir Fan I can guarantee you in one trip to the Region of Burgundy, France and it will all make sense. I was fortunate to do just that one week ago.

First a GLOSSARY of terms often used in French Wines especially in the Burgundy Region. 1- CRU = Growth. In Burgundy. These are vineyards in certain villages that are designated as a higher quality level of vineyard for growing grapes. There are just wines from the Village then the next level of quality comes from the Premier CRU and in certain areas the highest level is GRAND CRU. That’s me above in my trying to look non American (Fat Chance) look, standing in front of Criots-Batard Montrachet GRAND CRU Vineyard 2-CLOS= An Enclosed Vineyard. In Order to be a CLOS you have to have a Wall Surrounding the Vineyard. F.Y.I. this does not apply to the popular California Brand Name Clos Du Bois. Check out the picture below.

See a CLOS is a Wall. So on your bottle of Pouilly Fuisse it might say “Clos Ressier” Which is the name of the enclosed or CLOS vineyard in the VILLAGE of Pouilly Fuisse in the REGION of Burgundy France where we are drinking 100% What grape? If you are getting this…Chardonnay. At the Cave de Chaintre I tasted the 2010 Pouilly Fuisse Clos Reisser Vineyard which is one of the oldest vineyards in the village of Pouilly Fuisse. I love this wine for it’s fresh fruit taste of Apples and Pears and a hint of citrus with just a hint of oak.

Check out Thierry Pillot the son of Paul Pillot from Domaine Pillot in his vineyard in Chassagne Montrachet.

Have your eyes noticed something in common in the vineyards of Burgundy? I can certainly tell you it’s not your beautiful astroturf looking vineyard in Napa Valley. Burgundy is full of old stumpy thick vines, lots of clay and a whole bunch of limestone and rocks. During my visit, I was asking myself, how do they even grow anything in this soil. It is that very soil that makes wine from Burgundy so good. The minerality and the chalkiness from the limestone and rocks. The reds pick up that clay on the nose and palate. I am telling you Chardonnay haters, until you drink a White Burgundy or Chardonnay from Burgundy, France you haven’t even a clue how this grape varietal is supposed to taste. As far as the Reds, my blog readers know I love my Oregon Pinot Noirs but Burgundy has the one element that Oregon or Califonia doesn’t have, the limestone and the rocks or as the french call this environment “TERROIR”. The vineyards that are designated Premier Cru and Grand Cru are like small cemetery plots of land. You have to see this to understand so that you can justify why anyone in their right minds would spend hundreds of dollars on a Chardonnay or Pinot Noir just because it says GRAND CRU on the label. With that small parcel of vines, there isn’t that much to go around and that’s what demands the price and YES, it’s worth every penny.

Now for a slight commercial break from Wine Talk to Food Talk. How can I write about my first trip to France without talking about Food…so here comes the food pictures.

Homemade Veal Stew with Zucchini and Rice made by Anabelle Ballot from Domaine Ballot Millot.

Cheese Course served after every single meal. Thank you Dannon Yogurt for introducing the world to Activia!

Very unique preparation of Escargot (Snails) in a Parsley/Garlic Puree sauce. Just the beginning of great dinner in Chablis (Yes the Village not a Grape)

Roasted Lobster with Fresh Earthy Morel Mushrooms

Say Cheese again. At least in Chablis they are smart enough to serve it with Dried Prunes and Dried Apricots!

Finally some Foie Gras (The Real Deal) with a glass of Sauternes in Paris

Chateaubriand with homemade Bernaise Sauce, Haricot Vert (Small string beans) and Pommes Frites (Can’t call them FRENCH Fries in France)

Freshly Shucked Cold Water Oysters from Normandy, France with a squeeze of lemon (No red cocktail sauce here) and a glass of Chablis..WOW!

The Glass of Chablis is the perfect transition to one of my favorite 2 wineries on my journey.

Chateau de La Maligny owned by Jean Paul Durup in Chablis. Above is just one part of his little condo lol. You could easily get lost on this unreal property. I think Chablis is such an important stop for anyone visiting Burgundy especially once again you Chardonnay Haters. Chablis is located in the Northern most part of Burgundy. Very few to none of the producers use any oak at all in their Chardonnays so the wines show off the pure flavors of grape without any of that vanilla oak bomb heaviness found in American Chardonnay. Most importantly is the terroir here is made up of Kimmeridge clay with outcrops of a chalk layer and soil which is composed of limestone, clay and fossilized oyster shells. Chablis winemakers like Jean Paul Durup want to emphasize the Terroir of the calcareous soil being the most important factor that gives the acidity and minerality that is so special about the wines from this area.


Mr Durup showing us the unique Terroir of Chablis. Talk about getting your ROCKS off!! Chardonnay in it’s purest form and because of the acidity and the freshness and the minerality, you get a perfect pairing for those Oysters I had from Normandy.


Last but certainly not least, I wanted to mention a winery in the Nuits St. Georges area that I personally thought provide that best quality to price ratio of Pinot Noirs on the trip. Domaine R Dubois & Fils. Above I am drinking some great Red Burgundy with Raphael Dubois and below that is a very talented winemaker Beatrice Dubois. Raphael was not like most of the Burgundy producers with a little bit of a chip on their shoulder. He and I discussed my Oregon Pinot Noirs. He knew about Archery Summitt and Argyle and Domaine Drouhin and had nothing but positive things to say about Oregon Pinot Noir. From a Frenchman that’s a huge piece of humble pie. Once again we both agreed, the one thing they are missing there is the limestone and the terroir. Their wines were just like all the rest I tasted throughout Burgundy. 2009′s are drinking great right now. 2010′s especially the Premier Crus might go down as one of the classic vintages in Burgundy and will have more longevity for aging than 2009′s and the 2011′s that haven’t been finished yet or bottled, well the jury is still out but I am not very optimistic that it will be a great year. Beatrice and Raphael prepared a great lunch for us (Yes, Stinky Cheese Included as Usual..no PRUNES) and they whipped out a bottle of 1990 Premier Cru…WOW!

A Hospice de Nuits St George Premier Cru. These wines are produced to help benefit local hospices in the area. It certainly benefited me as the Pinot Noir was dark, deep and loaded with black fruits and ripe tannins. I wanted to mention an area known as the Jewel of the Cotes de Nuits, Clos De Vougeot. We tried a 2010 and like all the others they are gonna be great with some aging. It brings up a valid point that I discussed with the winemaker Beatrice. How can any reviewer including myself rate a 2010 Clos De Vougeot? These are not Pinot Noirs for a House Pour at a local Restaurant. I asked Beatrice what she thought of the 2010 and she candidly said, “Ask me again in 15 years”. We were then treated for comparison to a 1998 Clos de Vougeot. Now, I see her point. That wine was one of the best Pinots I have tasted in years but I wouldn’t have known that when back in 1999 or 2000. As I always say, there are wines for different purposes. Some for drinking tonight and some for drinking 5-10 years out. I didn’t want to leave Domaine R Dubois & Fils out of this blog because you can purchase their Village Nuits Saint Georges Wine in the $30 Price Range. With Pinot Noir prices being so high since the movie Sideways in 2004, I have spent that on many American Pinot Noirs and then some. I don’t care who the producer is in America. If I can get a Red Burgundy from Nuits Saint Georges for the same price or even less than an American made Pinot Noir without the Terroir, it’s a no brainer. R Dubois & Fils is Value Driven Quality Wines.

After a day in Paris seeing the sights it was time to go home to South Florida. That’s the only negative thing I can say about my visit to France is that you have to go home.

ALWAYS TIME FOR ONE LAST OYSTER!!!!!

It’s hard for a Sommelier to pass the message along to my blog readers how special wines from Burgundy are. On the flight home operated by a Kentucky based Delta Airlines crew, I ran into the world’s best flight attendant. Just what you need for a long plane ride home after a week of long days tasting wines and jet lag. Her name is Danielle. She helped me find a place for my carry-on luggage up in the front of the cabin as it wouldn’t fit in the overhead bin. She did it all with the warmest of smiles and the friendliest of laughs. More importantly when telling Danielle that I was in the Wine Industry and visited Burgundy her story expressed the uniqueness of this special wine producing region better than I could. Danielle’s dad was a lover of White Burgundies. Her dad was diagnosed with an illness that would prevent him from drinking wines. She went to New York to one of the biggest Wine Shops around, Sherry Lehmann. She spent a hefty dollar to pick up one of their best White Burgundies just for her dad. Sure she could have gone to a local wine shop in Kentucky and got a Domestic Chardonnay but afterall it was her Dad. Before my trip I would have thought Danielle was out of her mind! You’re a good daughter Danielle. Thanks for the smiles and a great flight home but most of all, the story about your dad made me realize how I had just visited one of the most unique special wine producing regions in THE WORLD. Put Burgundy France on your Bucket list as well!

Two Young Women Producing Big Masculine Wines In Walla Walla!

02 Wednesday May 2012

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Above are two cool women with a dream to produce wine in Walla Walla Washington. Annette Bergevin and Amber Lane formed Bergevin Lane Winery. Established in 2002 by two friends pursuing a shared dream. Bergevin Lane Winery nurtures wines that embody the truly unique environment of Walla Walla, Columbia and Yakima Valleys and the distinct single vineyards from where the rich terrestrial wines come from.

I tried two new vintage releases from Bergevin Lane tongiht. Above you see the 2009 Bergevin Lane Moonspell Cabernet Sauvignon. The Wine is a Bordeaux Blend but contains over the legal limit to be called a Cabernet Sauvignon. 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 9% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot (Folks who know me personally, know Larry The Wine Guy Loves The P.V.). They age the wine for 20 months in mostly French, American and a touch of Hungarian Oak. I think I learned during my trips to Italy, that you can’t make good pizza without a good dough, a good sauce and a good chef. The ladies feel this way about their wines. You can’t produce a good quality wine if you don’t have good grape juice. I think they are using grapes from the finest prime A.V.A’s (American Viticultural Area) Their fruit for this Cabernet comes from the famous Stone Tree Vineyards in the Wahluke Slope, Double Canyon Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, Les Collines and Pepper Bridge Vineyards in Walla Walla. Now they need a good chef. Dave Harvey joins Bergevin Lane with over 19 years of winemaking experience in Washington State working for notable wineries such as Townshend Cellars, Gordon Brothers and Terra Blanca. With about an hour of breathing time, I evaluated the wine. Right off the bat on the nose, I knew I had the best of both worlds. New World wine meets Old World wine. Aromas fill my nasal cavity with Dark Currant fruits, floral notes (That comes from the P.V. Petit Verdot) and fresh berries with a dash of cigar box and earth. The wine hits you right on the attack with Deep Cassis Flavors, crushed flower petals, dark chocolate and vanilla notes and a nice long slightly peppery finish. “Where’s The Beef”? Retail Price $29.99. Col Solare from Antinori and my good friends at Ste Michelle is one of my favorite wines in the world but at least double the price of this effort. I can see why Dr Jay Miller who covers the Pacific Northwest Beat for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate is so hopped up on this young winery. This Cabernet Sauvingon can play ball with the best of them at 1/3 the price. On to the Syrah.

Above is the 2009 Bergevin Lane She-Devil Syrah. 99% Syrah and just 1% Viogner. Only 444 cases produced. Once again they are using the Stone Tree Vineyard from the Wahluke Slope and also 29% from Francisca’s Vineyard in Walla Walla. I have said this for years in agreement with the Beverage Director of The Bellagio Hotel In Las Vegas Jason Smith, “I will take a Washington State Syrah over most anything produced in the Northern Rhone Valley Of France”. In addition after taking my first whiff of this wine, I defy ANY Master Sommelier to blind taste this wine and not mistake this wine for a Crozes Hermitage or Cornas. The color is amazingly inky and dark, dark purple. The nose smells smokey like the Rhone, The darkest black fruit aromas mixed with beautiful cedar box spices and violets seduced me into a Walla Walla Coma!. On The palate a very Lush, Chewy texture that totally embraced my mid-palate and finished with Dark Cacao and Spice with a finish that sails on. I have paid $80- $100 for Syrahs on the internet from Walla Walla that don’t even come close to the quality of this wine. Retail Price on this one $26.99. I love Cayuse, Charles Smith, K Vintners, Bob Betz Family Winery but I am going to go out on a limb here and say that this 2009 Bergevin Lane Syrah for this price is the best quality Syrah that I have tasted from anywhere including France in years. I don’t like to score wines but I am still finishing my glass from the bottle that has now been open 2 hours and I would have to go beserk and score this effort 96 points and a must try wine. I would love a pork tendeloin or rack of lamb with this. This wine is so good, I might even have it with a peanut butter and jelly sandwich lol.

For a winery that only has been doing this since 2002 my hats off to Annette Bergevin, Amber Lane, Dave Harvey the winemaker and Gary Bergevin who joined the team as one of the Managing Partners in 2002 but was director of Canoe Ridge Vineyards since 1972. This is only the Beginning. This is what value driven wines USED to taste like in the 90′s from Napa and Sonoma. This is what value driven Bordeaux and Rhone wines USED to taste like. For $30 and Under Bergevin Lane provides a trip down “Memory Lane”. Wait, one last swallow of the 2009 She-Devil Syrah….WOW, good to the last drop!

“Pat” On The Back To “Patagonia”

30 Monday Apr 2012

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I think all Wine Enthusiasts should invest in a small wine chiller to store 20-30 bottles. It’s fun to prepare an impromptu dinner at home and instead of running outside to a store you have a selection of various different price levels of wines that you have available right inside your home. I suggest the best affordable chillers are available on-line from WineEnthusiast.com

My friend Carolina who was born and raised in Argentina prepared some simple Basil Pasta with a garlic and oil sauce and grated cheese. Time to check the Wine Chiller to see what I had. On a trip 2 years ago to Argentina she picked up a Gran Reserva Malbec from Patagonia. I must admit I have tried many Argentine Wines from Mendoza and even some from Uruguay but not that many from Patagonia.

The photo above was the wine she brought home. This is the 2005 Humberto Canale Marcus Malbec Gran Reserva. The Appellation is the Rio Negro region of Patagonia which is still Argentina but further south. I have said it before and I will say it again. Wines that are produced in regions like Burgundy, France, Bordeaux, Washington State, Oregon and Southern Argentina in Patagonia where the climate is warm sunny days but cold nights, produce the most elegant wines in the world. The longer the growing season and the more resting time the grapes get, the more silky, lush flavors you get out of the grapes that are grown there. It makes sense. Just like a Vine Ripened Tomato, A Strawberry that stays on the vine longer will be sweeter in taste. With Grapes it is no different. Humberto Canale was founded in 1909 and named after the Engineer who started the winery. Four Generations later they are using the most modern techniques and producing some world class, affordable wines. I must say the 2005 Marcus Gran Reserva Malbec from Patagonia “BLEW ME AWAY!” The color was amazing. It was Inky, Dark Purple that had beautiful legs from the 14% Alcohol. The nose was confirmed by my palate which was very similar to a slice of Raspberry Cheesecake put in a blender and called WINE. The tannins were so integrated that you hardly noticed anything but a hint of Graphite on the back end with a silky long lasting finish. Lots of Fig type aromas and flavors as well. You would expect a Malbec requiring a big slab of meat (Which would be great) but this wine was so pleasant it was heaven to drink all on it’s own. I would strongly suggest you keep requesting from your local wine shops for some Presence on the shelves of the wines from Patagonia instead of Mendoza. They need to be more readily available. If you can find a bottle of this 2005 Marcus, I suggest you order it on-line from an internet shipper.

As an added note, if you don’t believe me, by surprise I had a yet to be famous Wine Reviewer taste the wine too. Robert “BARKER” Jr showed up. Accidentally one of the glasses of Malbec spilled into Carolina’s Beagle Roxie’s Dog Bed

Roxie went and licked it all up a half glass of the 2005 Malbec. She scored the Wine 91 points and I score it 93 points. Remember, “She ain’t nothing but a hound dog” She then felt a little buzzed and took a nice restful sleep.

As I enjoyed the last sip of my Wine, I thought maybe the idiom “Living a Dog’s Life” is not really that bad of a deal. People feed you, no worries about paying your bills, you get a glass of 2005 Gran Reserva Malbec and then you lay on a couch and take a nap…Nah, it sounds good on the surface but that “Neutering Part” is something I couldn’t deal with! Seek Out Wines From Patagonia!

Wines For Chillin’ And Grillin’ As Summer Approaches!

24 Tuesday Apr 2012

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It’s that time of year where we turn the corner from Spring to Summer and the Gas Grills and Backyard BBQ’S become a weekend tradition. I am tasting wines all the time and I think I narrowed it down to my best two choices for “Chillin’ And Grillin’”.

Last October I posted a video of my trip to visit Italy with Wine Importer Nadia Galati from Alberello Imports in Winter Park Florida. One of the highlights on my trip besides stuffing my face and gaining 9 pounds on the trip was meeting winemaker Fabiano Giorgi in Stradella which is part of the region known as the Oltrepo Pavese. It’s about 20 minutes away from Milan. Fabiano produces lots of sweet sparkling wines like Sangue Di Giuda (The Blood Of Judas) and Malvasia as well as red still wines. I think his Forte is Sparkling and Metodo Classico sparkling wines. Some of the Giorgi Sparklers were better than most expensive French Champagnes. The one I think is the most versatile for the American Palate is the Pinot Nero Bianco Frizzante. It has an expandable cork to keep the fizz in (Hence the word Frizzante or Fizzy) and not a Mushroom Champagne Cork that would proudce a (Spumante or More Bubbles). It is 100% Pinot Nero or Pinot Noir but without the use of the skins it is Bianco or White in color. I just had a bottle or maybe two about a week ago and had not had it since my trip to Italy in October. It is a beautiful, pale straw color, with a perfume of fresh fruits like apples, and peaches and a little toastiness. On the palate it drinks like a fruity beer. Very, crisp not too dry flavors of fresh pressed apples and a hint of tropical flavor but light, delicate and would be the perfect summertime sipper or with light salads, fish, or laying on a float in your backyard pool. What a beach wine as well!. Another great wine from Giorgi and the selections of Nadia Galati. That covers the Chillin’ Part. Now what about the Grillin’?

I just had a visit from Florian Abadie who is in charge of client relations for Lionel Osmin in Southwest France. I have done videos in the past that you can look up on the archives about the Wines of the town of Cahors. I always say you haven’t had a Malbec until you try one from Cahors (No Prostitutes there. You leave off the letter “S” when you say Cahors so get your minds out of the gutter) They have been producing Malbec in Cahors since 50 BC. Robert Parker made a statement that 2009 was the best year in Bordeaux. I disagree with Mr Parker. It was a very good year in Bordeaux but for the entire country of France and all the winemaking regions including Alsace, I think hands down 2009 was a great year for everyone. The 2009 Lionel Osmin Cahors that Florian sampled me on was no exception. This wine says BBQ and Grilled Meats and soon as you smell it. Florian told me only 20% of the juice sees any oak contact and the barrels they use are all neutral and used so the presence of oak is there but minimal. I love the dark flavors of Cassis and Vanilla with a hint of spiciness. It’s a big wine but yet a delicate wine at the same time. Very balanced and ripe tannins for such a young Malbec. It did as usual turn my teeth and tongue black but that is the type of extraction you get out of the Malbecs from Cahors. If you have drank Malbecs from Argentina you wouldn’t even be able to guess what you were drinking. This is the real deal. Ribs, Hamburgers, Steaks, Chops, Chicken, Portobello Mushrooms all would be complimented by this wine.

So there you have it. Two great choices for Chillin’ and Grillin and Summertime BBQ’S. You don’t have to wait until your team wins the world series or a special occasion to drink a sparkling wine. They are so refreshing and great all year long. In fact why wait for Summertime to drink the Giorgi Pinot Nero Bianco or the Lionel Osmin Cahors? I wasn’t a geography major but I believe it is Summertime somewhere all year long!!

With Wine “Screw Off” Is A Good Thing!

17 Tuesday Apr 2012

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They say you can’t teach an old horse new tricks. As Wine Enthusiasts we are going to have to start teaching new tricks to these old horses. I have been told for years by serious wine consumers, “The day they stop putting corks in wine bottles is the day they will stop drinking wine”! I feel so sorry for these people because I feel just the opposite. There is a shortage of good cork trees. Many corks are tainted with a bacteria called TCA and this will taint your bottle of wine to smell like wet cardboard mixed with mildew in your shower. This terminology is called “Corked”. Recent studies still show that 1 in every 12 bottles with a real cork in it is going to be “Corked”. I have found from personal experience on occasion 3 bottles in a case of wine I purchased to be “Corked”. When a server or sommelier brings you the bottle of wine you ordered and pours you that first sample, the rookie swirls it around like they see people do in the movies, smells it, takes a big taste and tells the server whether to pour a full glass. Trust me, I’ve worked in many fine dining restaurants. They are laughing at you when you do that. The server or sommelier doesn’t really care whether you like the wine you ordered. In fact, most red wines can’t even be judged until they have been open to aerate or breathe for at least 1 hour prior to drinking. They do care however if the wine is “Corked” or not so they can replace it with one that is not. You don’t need to taste the wine in most obvious cases to detect that just like you don’t need to check if there is a skunk in your trunk. One good whiff and you will know when a wine is “Corked”.


The above pictures are that of a closure for Wine Bottles known as “The Stelvin Closure”. To most people it is a screw off cap. That is where the psychology comes to play. Years ago, if a bottle of wine had a screw cap on it, people thought that meant you were buying a cheap bottle of poor quality wine. The new Stelvin Closures are totally different and more and more wineries including some bottles that cost $200 or more are starting to produce wines with Stelvin Closures instead of Corks…YIPPEE!!. Here are some reasons why I believe in Stelvin Closures: We’ve already established the Corked situation with natural cork. What about those synthetic corks or rubber corks? Synthetic corks, derived from plastic, appeared to be a viable alternative to traditional corks. However, their track record has been tarnished due to their inability to keep oxidation at bay for any real length of time, significantly decreasing the shelf life of a wine and short-changing the maturing process of select wines. With both regular corks and synthetic corks, the bottles don’t provide enough of a tight seal and they still let about 5% Oxygen in the bottle which causes every single bottle of wine from a specific vintage to have a slight variation in flavors from one to the other. Screw caps provide the best seal for bottled wines, and eliminate the “corked” and oxidation problem in one fell swoop. Hogue Cellars completed a 30-month study comparing natural and synthetic cork closures with the Stelvin Closures, their findings suggest significant benefits in utilizing screw caps over either natural or synthetic cork closures. While, screw caps do diminish the drama and romance of bottle opening it is well worth the sacrifice to ensure a taint-free wine that offers consistent aging, maintained flavor and freshness with optimum quality control. I even saw a study where a huge producer in Chablis, bottled half of his vintage with Corks and the other Half with Stelvin Closures. !2 % Of his bottles with Natural Corks were “Corked”. Each bottle of wine with a cork that the winemaker tasted had a slight variation. All bottles with his $300 Grand Cru Chablis that had Stelvin Closures were all in perfect condition and more importantly, each bottle tasted exactly the same and how the winemaker wanted to express that vintage of Chardonnay. Last but not least, if you buy a bottle with a natural cork for a special occasion to hold on to in your cellar to take to the restaurant to celebrate, what do you do if you get the 1 in 12 that was “Corked” 20 years later? 1- You order a bottle off of a Restaurant Wine List that is marked up 3-4 times so you can still celebrate. 2- Do you go to the Retailer you purchased the wine 25 years ago and ask for a refund if you even saved the receipt or if they are still in business? Now Lastly, wine bottles with natural corks have to be stored laying on their sides to prevent the corks from getting brittle. Stelvin Enclosures can be stored standing up and once again never a problem with tainted wine anymore.

So come on Italy and France and Spain. Get on board. Do you want the Romance and Drama of opening a cork versus perfect bottles everytime with consistency in the taste of each bottle? To all wine consumers who keep telling me they refuse to buy a wine with a Stelvin Closure or Screw Cap as it totally goes against their principles and embarasses them to give those bottles as a gift. I say to those consumers to enjoy buying wine that is worry free for cellaring or for drinking now. Welcome and Embrace the STELVIN. Doesn’t everyone want CLOSURE in life?

Italian Varietals With Passover Food? What Am I Chopped Liver?

10 Tuesday Apr 2012

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I always encourage wine consumers to stray away from the standard grape varietals and countries they keep buying wine from repeatedly. The fun of wine is to branch out and experiment. I practice what I preach. My work schedule is crazy, so this year I didn’t get to have my once a year fill of Passover Foods that remind me of my childhood. My friend Carolina who is originally from Argentina, whipped up a bowl of Homemade Matzoh Ball Soup better than I’ve had in 30 years when my grandmother was alive. I took care of the Brisket of Beef and I cheated a little and picked up some store-bought chopped liver with Whole Wheat Matzohs (At least one part of this meal had some fiber). Now the Wine Pairing Decision. With the first course of Chopped Liver and Matzoh Ball Soup, I went with an Italian Rose made by Bardolino winery owner and winemaker Giovanna Tantini. I think Italian Roses are more food friendly than the drier styles from Provence or Bandol in Southern France. They seem to pair well with just about anything.

I am a huge fan of Giovanna Tantini and her wines made in Bardolino in the Valpolicella region of Italy. The 2011 Bardolino Chiaretto is the best of the vintages I have tasted from this producer. The “Chiaretto” derived from the word “Claret” is made from 65% Corvina, 35% Rondinella and 5% Molinara. Giovanna produces her Rose in a similar method to the French “Saignee Method”. This involves very short contact with the skins and then “Bleeding” that first run juice to produce that beautiful salmon pink color. Forget all that mumbo jumbo. I’m starting to sound like a “Cork Dork”. The bottom line is that this Rose wine displayed fresh spring flowers on the nose with flavors of red currants, and the pith of a pink grapefruit with very well balanced acidity that causes your palate to say “this is a fresh, lively and refreshing glass of wine”. Most importantly, it was almost a nail on the head pairing with of all things Matzoh Ball Soup and Chopped liver. Both these dishes are more suited for Winter weather but the Chiaretto from Tantini provided that touch of Spring Time on my palate. Go Figure! Chopped Liver with Italian Rose. It sure beat Mogen David Concord Grape :-)

On to the Main Course. My Grandmother’s recipe for Brisket of Beef that braises for 3 hours until fork tender in beef broth and red wine, with the usual trilogy of Carrots, Onions, Celery. We had a great side of Roasted Beets, Yams and Potatoes. Time to test out a California Wine. Nope, not a Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot or Syrah. B.R Cohn released for the first time 700 cases of a 2009 Barbera that comes from Bill Pauli’s Vineyard in the hills just north of Ukiah in Mendocino County. Here, the warm days and cool nights provide the perfect climate for this grape. In case you think you read this wrong, I only had one glass of Bardolino before writing this blog so I am sober. Yes, the famous grape varietal Barbera coming from the Piemonte region of Italy in either Asti or Alba was grown in Mendocino County California!. The wine was tight and had a little too much alcohol at first hitting the heat index at 14.8% but after about 2 solid hours this Barbera was pretty. Silky flavors of spicy plums, cherry and a hint of pomegranate was a palate cleansing match for the rich brisket and gravy. The medium charred French Oak was not overbearing and actually added a nice toasty finish to this Italian Varietal made in California. It was even good to the last drop with a couple of bites of dark chocolate.

I think the lesson I learned from this odd pairing of wine and food was something I already knew. It’s kind of like the Six Degrees of Kevin Bacon (Did I just say Bacon on Passover..OOPS!) I love the great wines of France, Spain, Portugal, Washington State, Oregon, California, New York State, but as an overview of what wines are the “Go To” Wines to serve with dinner that won’t break your piggy bank, Italian Varietals from first course to dessert, seem to be the food friendliest of all, even when the Barbera is coming from California. I bet you if I would have done a full blown Seder and Left out a glass for Elijah of either one of these two great wines, he never would have made it to anyone else’s Passover Meal. Ciao and L’Chiam!

Everyone Needs A Mentor…Meet Mine: Andrea Immer Robinson

01 Sunday Apr 2012

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15 years ago, I was a Radio Personality/Comedy Writer. I hated wine. The only wine I would drink to be social was Kendall Jackson Chardonnay, and I’d really go big on New Year’s Eve with Andre Cold Duck. I always loved to cook since I was 12 years old and I was always fascinated by TV Cooking shows like Julia Child’s “The French Chef” and Graham Kerr “The Galloping Gourmet”. I don’t remember if it was on Public Television or The early days of the Food Network that I came across a show about Wine with a host named Andrea Immer. I just thought she was some wine loving woman who looked good on camera and had a wine show. Little did I know that Andrea Immer was a Certified Master Sommelier. There are 118 professionals who hold the title Master Sommelier in North America and the CMS Americas. Of those 101 are men and 17 are women. There are 160 professionals worldwide who have earned the title Master Sommelier since the first Master Sommelier Diploma Exam. I was shopping at a Barnes and Noble Bookstore and I always used to gravitate towards the cookbook section and I came across this:

I had to buy it. I was a Head Bartender at a Fine Dining Hotel Restaurant and I didn’t know Jack about Wine. I also figured out quite quickly that I could double my income in Tip money if I could learn about Wine except that all these so called Sommeliers the Wine Distributors or Corporate Restaurants would send to train us on wine were so boring and so snooty that you learned nothing more about wine only about the Trainer’s Awards and Background. I finished Andrea’s Book in 2 days. The title “Great Wines Made SIMPLE” was the appropriate title. After reading Andrea’s Biography not only is she a Master Sommelier but she was named the first woman Cellarmaster for Windows on the World in the World Trade Center in 1992, and in 1996, reopened the restaurant as Beverage Director. Andrea counts the most significant years of her wine career in service to the Windows family of employees and guests. In 1996 Andrea was awarded the title of Master Sommelier from the Court of Master Sommeliers. In April 1997 she competed for and won the Sommelier Society of America’s ‘Best Sommelier in the United States title! I could not believe that this woman was the same Andrea Immer that taught me more about Wine in 2 days of reading her book than all the Experts these Restaurants would send to Train Servers and Bartenders. Not only did I learn so much about Wine from Andrea’s book she lit a fire under me to explore drinking wines. Goodbye Andre’s Cold Duck, Hello Champagne and Prosseco and Goodbye Kendall Jackson Chardonnay and Hello White Burgundy and a Plethora of Red Wines that I never had heard of before. I now knew what I wanted to be when I grew up lol! I wanted to follow in Andrea’s Footsteps, use my personality and comedy writing from the Radio Days and become the Male version of Andrea Immer. I enrolled in every course I could take at Johnson and Wales in Miami, The French Culinary Academy in New York to study for my exams to become a Certified Sommelier with the Court Of Master Sommeliers. After I passed my Level One and got my certificate, I applied for a job at the newly remodeled Westin Diplomat Hotel in Hollywood Florida owned by Starwood Hotels, to be a Wine Steward in their Steakhouse called Hollywood Prime. I was hired on the spot. We went through the usual Restaurant Training but when it got to the Wine part they told the staff they would be teaching us Wine using an $11 million dollar video that Starwood Hotels produced to Train ALL their Hospitality Staff at their properties Worldwide. I thought, here we go again! Time to take a nap. Surprise!!! The host of the video was none other than Andrea Immer who was the first Corporate Director of Beverage Programs for Starwood Hotels & Resorts, Andrea oversaw the entire alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverage program for its North American hotels, including the Sheraton, Westin and W Hotels, and The Luxury Collection. She also launched its award-winning wine education program, lauded by USA Today and numerous trade publications as the most innovative and far-reaching in the industry. Just like her book, just like her appearances on TV, just like she speaks to the millions of guests when presenting wine at a Restaurant, she doesn’t speak like any other Master Sommelier she speaks in an ANDREA IMMER Language that makes wine easy for everyone to understand. Andrea even put together a Wine Program for Target Stores and The Olive Garden. Neither of those wine lists were Wine Spectator Award of Excellence nominees but what they were IMMER-IZED….Great Wines made Simple!

For those of you who know me or have met me, I have gone on to become a Level 2 Certified Sommelier and I have worked in every aspect of the Wine Industry from Selling Wine for Southern Wine and Spirits, Retail Shops, to being a Sommelier/Beverage Director at Hotels, Wine Bars and Restaurants and now known as Larry “The Wine Guy”. Not too shabby for a guy who hated red wine and drank Cold Duck on New Year’s Eve. I think in life, everyone needs a Mentor to ignite that spark that gets you excited about a subject. Andrea Immer Robinson is that Mentor to me. One Final note to prove my point. I am on Twitter as @LarryWineGuy I follow many of the Wine Industry’s biggest names from RobertParkerJr, Antonio Galloni, James Molesworth, James Suckling, Kevin Zraley, and of course Andrea Immer Robinson at @AndreaWine. I have made hundreds of attempts to respond to tweets to every single one of the above names and hundreds more and they get lost somewhere in Twitterville and they are TOO BIG to respond to a little ol’ not famous Sommelier like me. You guessed it, Andrea Immer responds to every single message I send her. You can imagine in your own lives trying to make contact with the person who inspired your career and actually getting a response.

You are the most influential person in my Wine Life Andrea and I believe the most infulential person in the Wine Community. I end every single Video on my blog with the closing being “WINE IS NOT FOR SNOBS, IT IS FOR EVERYDAY PEOPLE LIKE YOU AND ME” And the person who taught me that lesson Andrea Immer Robinson.

Steel Cage Match! Oregon Versus California Pinot Noir

26 Monday Mar 2012

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This is a Semi-Blind tasting of 2009 La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Versus 2008 Maysara Jamsheed Oregon Pinot Noir. I haven’t tasted a California Pinot Noir that I thought was WORTHY of even calling itself a Pinot Noir in 20 Years! I haven’t had a glass of La Crema in years but see it by the glass and by the bottle on various Restaurant Wine Lists where I never thought it was worthy. I call it a Semi-Blind tasting as I do know the 2 wines that were being tasted and where they were from however, I had no clue as to which wines were in either of my glasses. I asked my friends Carolina and Amanda to pour the wines and not tell me which was La Crema or which was Maysara. Just to insure any possiblity that maybe I am biased, I had both Carolina and Amanda taste the 2 wines with ME pouring them so we can see what 2 non wine experts so to speak thought of the 2 efforts. I still stand by my 9 year slogan: If it starts with the word P-I-N-O-T, White or Red as in Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc or Pinot Noir, ONLY DRINK IT FROM OREGON!

My Trip To Argentina, In My Own Florida Backyard!

19 Monday Mar 2012

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I’ve said it before and I am going to say it again. For the most part, the wines from Argentina available at Retailers in America would NEVER be drank by a true Argentine. The long list of Supermarket quality wines including the well selling Gallo Brands of Alamos, Don Miguel Gascon, the Nortons, Trapiches, Bodega Elena are all Wines looked at by Argentinian people and Sommeliers like myself as Yellow Tail is looked upon by an Australian…Low End CRAP!.

I am fortunate that my roommate and friend Carolina is from Argentina and her brothers Sebastian and Gregorio and mother Betty come visit us from Buenos Aires every year. That is the only time any of us drink Wines from Argentina because they are the real deal that come directly from the Source and haven’t been “Gallo-ized” yet. Tonight was the last night of our visit with Gregorio (nickname Grego). Just like they do in Argentina on a Sunday they get together with family and do what is known as Asado (Meats and Organs of the wonderful grass fed beef) grilled over hardwood and charcoal on a fire pit. With Grego here and the availabilty of Argenitne Meat Cuts in South Florida from Argentine Meat Shops, Grego was able to create the Sunday Asado fo us in our South Florida Backyard.

In the picture above, Grego and I toast each other with Homemade Beer brewed up by my other Roomie and friend Amanda. The Asado Meat Cuts are on the Fire Pit cooking. Let’s disucss the cuts on the grill in the picture. On the top left is Molleja in Spanish which translates to Sweetbreads in English. Many of you steakhouse diners might be familiar with Sweetbreads wrapped in bacon which is pretty much almost on every high end steakhouse menu. F.Y.I., Sweetbreads are not Banana Bread or Corn Muffins, this is the Thymus Gland of the Cow. Ewwwww, sounds gross??? Don’t knock it till you try them. On the Bottom Left we have the actual Asado which almost every American is familiar with as Short Ribs but they are served later in the meal. Next to the Short Ribs are the Chinchulines (The innards, The Poop Shoot). Soul food junkies will know Chitlins but those are fried and the intestines of a pig. In Argentina for the most part it’s all about the Beef Baby!. Also on the Grill to the right of the Chinchulines are 2 types of Seasoned Beef Sausages. The Churrasco (Skirt Steak) cooks quickly so that goes on the grill last.


From the Grill to the Plate. It’s time to dig in!!


I may be out of order but I go right for the Beef Sausage in the first picture above. As you can see in the next picture, Amanda is not as adventurous as the rest of us as she looks at the plate and trys to find anything that doesn’t look like an intestine or thymus gland but I’m right next to her tearing into anything that isn’t moving on the plate. The food and the order in which it is served is so traditional in Argentina and so delicious (Minus the night of tums that most of us will be taking for hogging all that rich Organ Meat, but well worth it). It was an Amazing meal and of course the most important part is the REAL ARGENTINIAN WINES we paired with the food.

Don Felipe Rutini, an Italian immigrant from the winemaking region of Le Marche, founded bodegas La Rural in 1885. Don Felipe, who came to Argentina with a degree in agriculture from the Real Scuola de Ascoli Pisceno, had his eye on quality from the start. One of the first varietals he planted was Cabernet Sauvignon, in the Maipu vineyard, where La Rural grows Cabernet Sauvignon for Trumpeter today.
Don Felipe sent his six children to study in Italy. The new generation brought back to Argentina the European concept of ‘terroir’. They set out to find the best sites for vine cultivation in Mendoza. In 1925, the Rutinis planted their first vines in Tupungato. But it wasn’t until the 80’s and 90’s that the Tupungato Valley would become the “Napa Valley” of Mendoza, with every Argentine and foreign winery investing in Argentina trying to buy land there for vineyards. The 2 wines we had with the Asado were from the Tupungato vineyard. 6 Years ago, Nicolas Catena from famous Bodeaga Catena Zapata partnered up as a consultant with Don Felipe’s Great Grandson who is running the Bodga now. We had the 70% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% Merlot and then moved on to the Rutini 70% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% Syrah blend. Both wines age for 12 months in French Oak (50% New and 50% Used). The Cab/Merlot blend was nice but the red fruits were slightly jammy for me. The better pairing was the Cab/Syrah with the Asado Meal, especially with the last portion of the meal the Churassco (Skirt Steak) and for me another Tums producing Molleja (That’s the one too many rule that always gets to me but you only live once lol)

The 2006 Cab/Syrah blend was really ripe and ready to go but darker and more complex than the Cab/Merlot Blend. I like the nose on this wine with dark black fruits of currant, blackberry, black raspberry, the palate was medium body and silky with a solid mid-palate and the ripe tannins just glided over the cuts of juicy but yes fatty beef cuts ending with a touch of baking spices and black pepper on the finish. I would score this effort 88 points.

Don’t cry for me Argentina, I have connections lol but so can you. My strong recommendation is not to purchase these fake tasting low end Argentinian Wines from a Wine Retailer but go straight to the source. Let your fingers do the walking (does anyone use the yellow pages anymore with the whole world having smartphones?) and seek out a local Argentinian Grocery Store, Meat Shop, Bakery as they all carry the real deal wines like Rutini and while you are there pick up some meats, Chimichurri sauce, and bread with the wines and you can take a vacation to Argentina in your own backyard as well. Muchas Gracias Gregorio for a great meal and the Rutini Wines you brought on your visit. I’d write more but I need another Ginger Ale and Some Tums!

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